croissants

lovely and light, buttery but not greasy: that's the ultimate goal!

500g strong white flour
- plus extra for dusting
1 ½ tsp salt
50g sugar
14g dried yeast
300g butter, at room temperature
vegetable oil, for greasing
1 egg

• Put the flour, salt and sugar in a mixing bowl. Measure 300ml cold water into a jug, add the yeast and stir. Make a well in the flour and pour in the liquid. Mix, then knead on your work surface for 10 mins. Shape into a ball, put in a lightly oiled bowl, cover and chill for at least 2 hrs.
• Put the butter between 2 sheets of baking parchment. Using a rolling pin, bash and roll it into a rectangle about 20 x 15cm. Leave wrapped in the baking parchment and chill.
• Transfer the chilled dough to a floured surface and roll into a 40 x 20cm rectangle. Place the unwrapped slab of butter in the centre of the dough, so that it covers the middle third.
• Fold one side of the dough up and halfway over the butter.
• Fold the other side of the dough up and over the butter in the same way, so that the two edges of the dough meet in the centre of the butter.
• Fold the dough in half so that the point where the ends of the dough meet becomes the seam. Wrap in cling film and chill for 30 mins.
• Repeat the rolling, folding and chilling process (steps 3-6) twice more in exactly the same way – rolling the pastry while it’s still folded – without adding more butter. Wrap and chill overnight.
• The next day, roll the dough out on a floured surface into a large rectangle, measuring about 60 x 30cm. Using a sharp knife or pizza cutter, trim the edges to neaten.
• Cut the dough in half lengthways so that you have 2 long strips, then cut each strip into 6 or 7 triangles with 2 equal sides.
• Take each triangle in turn and pull the two corners at the base to stretch and widen it.
• Starting at the base of each triangle, begin to gently roll into a croissant, being careful not to crush the dough.
• Continue rolling, making sure the tip of each triangle ends up tucked under the croissant to hold in place. If adding any fillings (see tips, below), place across the widest part of the triangle before rolling up.
• Bend the ends of the croissants inwards, then transfer to baking trays lined with baking parchment, spaced well apart. Cover with lightly oiled cling film and leave to rise for 2 hrs, or until doubled in size.
• Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Mix the beaten egg with a pinch of salt and use to generously glaze the croissants. Bake for 15-18 mins until risen and golden brown, then cool on wire racks.

tomato chutney

600g tomatoes, quartered (you can blanch* and remove skins if preferred)
1 dessertspoon tomato puree
150ml white wine vinegar
1 shallot, peeled, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, peeled, finely chopped
2cm/¾in piece fresh root ginger, peeled, finely grated
1 red chilli, finely chopped or 1 tsp paprika
125g sultanas
100g light brown sugar

• To blanch, steam over boiling water for about 5 minutes.  When the skins split, you can lift them out and remove the slins easily with a knife and fork.
  Put all ingredients into a lidded pan, adding the sugar last and stirring until it dissolves in the juices, and bring the mixture to the boil. 
  Reduce the heat and simmer for 1 hour, or until the chutney has thickened and you can draw a wooden spoon across the base of the pan so that it leaves a channel behind it that does not immediately fill with liquid.
• Spoon the chutney into sterilised jars.

rosemary and lemon chicken

tasty and moist roast chicken for summer

for 4

• 20g rosemary
• 3 tbsp butter
• 1 garlic clove, crushed
• 1 lemon, zested and then halved
• 1 tsp paprika
• 1¼kg whole chicken, preferably free-range
• 4 medium carrots (or other roastable veg, eg swedes)

serve with potatoes boulangère or roast potatoes, and gravy made from the chicken juices or a white wine reduction

Heat oven to 190C/170C fan. Very finely chop half the rosemary and mix with 2 tbsp of the butter and the garlic, lemon zest and chilli. Gently lift the skin away from the breast of the chicken and press the butter underneath on both sides. Rub the remaining butter on the outside of the chicken. Stuff the lemon inside the cavity.
Place the chicken on a wire rack over the carrots in a medium roasting tin. Season, then scatter with the remaining rosemary leaves. Roast the chicken for 1 hr 10 mins or until the juices run clear, then remove from the oven and let it rest for 10 mins before carving. Serve it carved on a board with the carrots and potatoes and gravy alongside.

lobscouse (beef casserole)

a very hearty traditional beef stew 

Visiting Liverpool recently, I wondered at the origin of 'scouse' and 'scouser'.  Ian told me that a common Cumbrian dish is called scouser, a sort of dry stew.  Looking in to this, it seems to be a sailors' dish common around northern Europe (lapskaus in Norwegian, and labskaus

in German, although the dishes actually vary a lot) seemingly adopted by Liverpudlians in the 19th century, when the city was the biggest port in the world, and so popular that they got the nickname of the dish.  It is still popular in Liverpool, with variations throughout the north west of England.  Lamb is often used instead of beef.  This recipe is based on a version by the Hairy Bikers, with a few adaptations, and extremely tasty, hearty and simple to make. 

Traditionally served with good crusty bread and often also with pickled red cabbage, gherkins or beetroot (which is similar to the German version).

This would be a good way of using up leftovers, eg with roast beef just for the last 15 mins and the overall cooking time reduced to about 1½ hours.  The vegetables can also be varied to whatever you have to hand, to give a similar bulk. 

 

for 2 good sized portions

1 tbsp olive oil (I imagine dripping would be more authentic!)
450g stewing beef, chopped
1 medium onion, peeled, chopped
1 medium potato, sliced (peel left on if in good condition)
½ swede, peeled, chopped (or a turnip)
1 leek, trimmed, sliced into 2-3cm lengths
1 carrot, peeled, sliced ditto
small bunch of flat parsley, chopped
salt and generous helping of ground black pepper (say 1 teaspoon)
about 500ml beef stock

optional bread and pickles to serve as above

• Heat the oil/fat in a heavy bottomed casserole dish over a medium heat. Add the beef pieces and cook for 4-5 minutes, stirring occasionally, or until browned all over.
• Remove the beef and marrow bones from the pan and set aside on a warm plate.
• Add the chopped onion to the casserole the beef was cooked in. Fry in the pan juices for 1-2 minutes, or until softened.
• Stir in the potato and swede and continue to cook for a further 2-3 minutes.
• Add the chopped leek, carrot and parsley asalt and black pepper. Continue to cook for a further 1-2 minutes, or until just softened.
• Return the beef to the casserole, then pour over enough beef stock to just cover the casserole contents.
• Cover the casserole with a lid, then cook until the beef is tender.  Stir it up occasionally. (You could also transfer to an oven at 150°C.)  This will take about 2 ½ hours. The liquid should be greatly reduced so that the meat and veg are still succulent but there is not a lot of liquid when transferred to the plate (but don't overdo and burn it!)
• Serve with the crusty bread and pickle.

crumpets

hot buttered crumpets - mmmmm!

• you will need a large, heavy frying pan and crumpet or egg rings

225g strong white plain flour (bread flour)
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon dried yeast
1 teaspoon caster sugar
275ml milk
55ml water

• Heat the milk and water mixed together to 'hand hot'.  
• Pour into a jug, stir in the sugar and yeast and leave in a warm place for about 15 minutes, by which time there should be a good frothy head.
• Sift the flour and salt into amixing bowl, make a well and pour in the yeast mixture.  Use a wooden spoon to work the liquid in gradually, then beat well to make a perfectly smooth batter.
• Leave the batter in a warm place, covered with a tea towel, for 45 minutes. It should become light and frothy.
• To cook, grease the insides of the egg rings and the frying pan.  Place the pan over a medium heat, and when hot, place the rings in it.  Spoon 2 tablespoons of the mix into the rings and cook for 4 or 5 minutes.  Tiny bubbles will appear, then burst to form the larger, familiar holes.
• With a spoon and fork, lift off the rings, and flip the muffins, cooking on the second side for only about a minute.
• Repeat until the batter is all used up.
• Serve hot immediately, well buttered; or if later, toast lightly on both sides first.

(english) muffins

light and fluffy comfort food, good toasted with plenty of butter and jam

• they used to be just muffins, but the rise of the completely different sweet american muffins means we have to call them english muffins nowadays!
• this recipe, based on Paul Hollywood's, adds an egg to the traditional recipe, giving a richer texture

• makes about 10 muffins

600g strong white bread flour (plus more for dusting)
12g dried yeast
12g salt
30g caster sugar
30g softened butter, cut into small pieces
1 large egg (ie about 45g weight), lightly beaten
340ml milk (should make a soft dough – you can add up to about 60ml extra if needed)
oil, for greasing

• Tip the flour into the bowl of a food processor. Sprinkle in the yeast and the salt. Add the sugar, butter, egg and milk, then mix all the ingredients together to form a soft dough.  Continue to process until soft, smooth and stretchy.
• (You can also do this by hand, mixing the ingredients in a bowl, then turn out onto a lightly floured surface and knead for 10 minutes.)
• Lightly grease a large bowl with oil. Place the dough in the oiled bowl, cover and leave to prove for about one hour, or until doubled in size.
• Dust the work surface with flour*. Tip the dough out onto the work surface and roll out to about 2.5cm thick.
• Lightly dust two baking trays with flour*.
• Using a 9cm straight-sided cutter, cut out muffins. Press the final bits and pieces of dough into the ring to make the last one.  Place muffins, evenly spaced apart on dusted baking trays. Dust the top of the muffins. with flour*.
• Leave to prove for another 30 minutes.
• Preheat the hot plate or a heavy-based frying pan on the hob to a very low heat. Griddle the muffins for approximately 5-6 minutes, then flip over and griddle for another 5-6 minutes on the other side.

 *PH uses semolina or polenta, but flour seems to work fine.

victoria sponge

Mary Berry's recipe is a great success, light and moist.

I've always had problems with Victoria sponges, with the sponge baking flat as a pancake.    It makes about 8-10 slices and keeps in the fridge for 5-6 days.

• You will need two 20cm sprung cake tins

4 large free-range eggs
225g/8oz caster sugar, plus extra for sprinkling
225g/8oz self-raising flour
1 level tsp baking powder *
225g/8oz unsalted butter, softened, plus extra for greasing
for the filling:
raspberry (or strawberry) jam ** - MB uses 450g - a whole jar! - but half this is also OK.
300 ml whipped cream ***
caster or icing sugar for dusting the top

• Preheat the oven to 180C/160C Fan. 
• Grease the sides and base of the tins with butter. Line the bottom of the tins with a circle of baking paper.
• Break the eggs into a large mixing bowl, add the sugar, flour, baking powder and soft butter. Mix everything together until well combined. Be careful not to over-mix – as soon as everything is blended you should stop.* The finished mixture should be of a soft ‘dropping’ consistency.
• Divide the mixture evenly between the tins and gently smooth the surface.
• Bake for 25 minutes. Don’t open the door. The cakes should be golden-brown and coming away from the edge of the tins, and springy to the touch. 
• Remove them from the oven and set aside to cool in the tins for 5 minutes. Then run a knife around the inside edge and turn out onto a cooling rack. (Put a clean tea towel over the tin, put your hand onto the tea towel and turn the tin upside-down. The cake should come out onto your hand and the tea towel – then you can turn it from your hand onto the wire rack.) 
• Set aside to cool completely.
• To assemble, choose the sponge with the best top, then put the other cake top-down on to a serving plate. Spread with the jam then the cream. Place the other sponge on top (top uppermost) and sprinkle with caster sugar to serve.

* These two elements are different from other recipes and may be the secret of success.
** You can easily make the jam! Put 200g raspberries in a small deep-sided saucepan and crush them with a masher. Add 250g sugar and bring to the boil over a low heat until the sugar has melted. Increase the heat and boil for 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and carefully pour into a shallow container. Leave to cool and set.
*** I prefer fresh cream but MB uses butter cream: 100g unsalted butter, softened; 200g icing sugar; 2 tbsp milk.   Beat the butter in a large bowl until soft. Add half of the icing sugar and beat until smooth. Add the remaining icing sugar and one tablespoon of the milk and beat the mixture until creamy and smooth. Add the remaining tablespoon of milk if the buttercream is too thick.

potato, cheese and onion pie

from John Waite (via Gail) - a substantial, tasty pie suitable for a vegetarian Christmas, or any time for comfort food!

for 6-8
You will need a 23cm dia pie dish

Pastry:
225g plain flour, plus extra for dusting
1 tsp fine sea salt
150g unsalted butter, cubed
75ml whole milk
1 tsp cider vinegar
1 egg yolk, to glaze

Filling:
750g Maris Piper potatoes
1 medium onion, finely chopped
300ml crème fraîche
1 tsp wholegrain mustard
3 salad onions, finely sliced
25g pack parsley, roughly chopped
3 tbsp finely chopped chives
250g mature Cheddar, grated
200g Gruyère, grated
Finely ground white pepper, to season

Pastry:

• Put the flour, salt and butter into a bowl and rub in until you have 'breadcrumbs'. 
• Make a well in the centre. In a small jug mix together the milk and vinegar, then add it all to the dry ingredients. 
• Using a blunt knife, cut the milk into the flour until it starts to clump together. When it does (and most of the dry, powdery bits of flour are incorporated) knead the pastry briefly – no more than 20 seconds – until it is reasonably smooth. 
• Flatten into a disc, wrap in clingfilm and chill for at least 30 minutes.

Filling:

• Wash and quarter the potatoes – unpeeled. 
• Steam the potatoes for 25 minutes, or until very easily pierced with a knife. 
• Remove them from the steamer, then return them to the hot, dry pan. Add the onion and leave to steam for 5 minutes more. 
• Add the remaining filling ingredients, stirring to combine, and seasoning to taste with salt and white pepper – some of the potatoes will fall apart, but don’t worry, just get it all evenly combined.

Assembling:

• Preheat the oven to 200°C and place a baking sheet in the oven to heat up.
• Take two thirds of the pastry and roll it out on a well-floured worktop, until it forms a disc big enough to line the base of the pie dish, with surplus hanging over the sides. 
• Pile the cooled potato mixture into the pie dish and level off. 
• Roll out the remaining pastry to a disc big enough to top the pie, again with a little excess, and place it on top of the potatoes. 
• With a sharp knife, trim away the excess pastry, then crimp the pastry together at the edges.
  Beat the egg yolk with a pinch of salt and a drop of water and use it to glaze the top of the pie. 
• Cut a hole in the centre to let out steam. 
• Place onto the hot baking sheet in the oven and bake for 30-35 minutes, until the pie is a deep golden brown. 
• Allow to rest for 5 minutes or so before serving – this will help to set the filling.

peter piper's ploughman's pickle

great with cheese, cold meats... in fact with most things!

to make 2 jars (use screw top lidded jam jars or similar)

120g carrots, diced
1 medium onion, diced
1 medium turnip, diced
120g kohl rabi, diced (or white radish (daikon), or more carrot and turnip!)
3 garlic cloves, crushed
150g dark brown sugar
salt
30ml lemon juice
180ml cider/wine vinegar
1 tsp ground allspice
1/2 tsp cayenne pepper

• Place all the above in a thick bottomed pan and simmer until turnips are just cooked but still crunchy - about 35 mins on a low simmer.
• Meanwhile, sterilise the jars and lids by placing in boiling water for a few minutes, using tongs to  lift in and out.
• Transfer the cooked pickle to the jars immediately while still at boiling temperature, leaving as little air gap as possible.
• Screw the lids tightly closed.
• NB should be refrigerated once opened.

shepherd's (or cottage) pie

for 4

a juicy take on the traditional recipe - great winter comfort food!

1 tablespoon olive oil
1 teaspoon black pepper
450g minced lamb or beef
- you can use left over roast meat - cut up roughly into small chunks - and stick the left over gravy in with the stock too
1 large onion, finely diced
vegetables: use what you have, eg:
- 3 - 4 large carrots, finely diced
- 1 cup frozen peas
3 -4 sprigs fresh thyme, finely chopped (or dried 1 tbsp)
2 tablespoons flour
1 tablespoon butter
1 glass red wine
2 tablespoons tomato paste
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
240ml stock (beef, chicken or mushroom)
1 large quantity mashed potatoes (about 1 litre)
1 egg, beaten
grated parmesan (or cheddar) cheese

• Pre-heat oven to 200C/400°F.
• Saute carrots in the olive oil until starting to get tender.
• Add in the onions and saute for a minute or two then add the meat.
• Season with black pepper and thyme.
• Cook until browned then drain fat.
• Add the butter and peas.
• Sprinkle with flour and stir through.
• Add tomato paste, wine and Worcestershire sauce.
• Let this reduce slightly then add the chicken stock. Allow to reduce down until you have a thick meaty gravy. Season to your taste.
• Remove from heat. Grease an oven proof dish with butter and add the sauce.
• Spoon the mashed potatoes over top. Brush with egg and sprinkle with the cheese.
• Bake for about 20 minutes or until the potato is nice and browned on top.

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kimchi

A great spicy accompaniment that goes with many things and keeps for up to 3 months in the fridge

This is based on a Jamie Oliver recipe but I used some more easily available substitutions and it worked well.
You will need a large, sealable kilner jar or similar, sterilized in boiling water before using

• 1 Chinese cabbage (the large oval type)
• salt
• 6 cloves of garlic, peeled
• 1 thumb-sized piece of ginger, peeled
• 1 teaspoon caster sugar
• 2 tablespoons dried smoked paprika*
• 200g crunchy vegetables** 
• 6 spring onions
• 2 tablespoons Korean shrimp paste***

* authentic recipes use Korean gochugaru, but the Hungarian variety seems to work fine

** traditionally daikon, a Korean white radish, (aka white radish or mooli) but I have substituted carrot and kohl rabi - the carrot adds interesting colour

*** I substituted Thai fish sauce

1. Quarter and remove the stalks from the cabbage, then chop it crosswise at 2cm intervals, break it up and place in a large bowl. Sprinkle over 4 tablespoons of sea salt and massage it in with your hands.
2. Cover with cold water and sit a plate on top to keep the veg submerged. Set aside for 2 hours, then rinse it thoroughly under cold water in a colander, and leave to drain for 30 minutes.  Squeeze out any excess water.
3. Cut the vegetables and spring onions into matchsticks.
4. Blitz the garlic, ginger and sugar together to a smooth paste. Add the shrimp paste/fish sauce and paprika and mix well.
5. Mix all the ingredients in a large bowl.
6. Spoon the kimchi into your kilner jar and press it down so the juices rise, leaving a gap at the top, then close and seal the lid.
7. Leave the kimchi to ferment at room temperature for up to 5 days (place the jar on a plate to catch any brine that might bubble over.) Check every day, letting out some gas and pressing the vegetables down into the brine.You may find small bubbles rising, showing it is fermenting.
8. The kimchi is now ready: transfer the jar to the fridge.  Its flavour will improve with time.

minestrone

good winter warming soup

vegetables: onion and garlic essential but otherwise you can vary it depending on what you have, eg:
-  1 red onion
-  1-2 cloves garlic
-  1 carrot
-  2 sticks celery
-  1 small leek (quarter lengthwise and chop into slices)
-  1 small potato

olive oil
1 x 400g can chopped plum tomatoes
200g canneloni (or similar) beans
1/2 tsp dried oregano
salt and pepper
50g pasta (any type but smash up if big such as penne)
1 litre vegetable (or beef) stock
good handful of seasonal greens, eg savoy cabbage
parmesan cheese, about 4 tbsp, grated

other options:
-  smoked bacon lardons
-  fresh basil leaves

1. Chop the onions and garlic finely and fry for 5 minutes in olive oil in a pan big enough to take all the ingredients.
2. Chop the other vegetables, add to the pan and fry gently for a further 10 minutes.
3. If using lardons, fry them separately until brown and then add them to the main pot.
4. Add the tomatoes and stock to the pan, bring to a boil.  Add the oregano, salt and pepper. I use quite a lot of pepper! Stir well as it comes to the boil.
5. Cover with a lid and simmer for about 30 minutes.
6. Add the greens and pasta, stir in and cook for a further 8 minutes.
7. Add the beans and cook for a further few minutes, until the pasta is how you like it (should be a little al dente).  Add some boiling water if the soup is too thick at this stage.
8. Stir in the basil leaves at the end, if used, and add more salt and pepper if necessary.
9. Serve topped with the grated parmesan cheese

albondigas - spicy lamb meat balls

tasty and quick way of preparing minced lamb: 

spanish with an arabian influence

for 4

For the albondigas:

40g bread, torn into pieces
3 tbsp milk
125g thinly sliced Serrano ham, finely chopped
600g lamb mince
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1½ tsp (7g) cumin seeds (or ground cumin)
1½ tsp (7g) ground coriander
¾ tsp (3.5g) hot paprika
2 tbsp (36ml) chopped fresh flatleaf parsley
¾ tsp (3g) salt
¾ tsp (3g) freshly ground black pepper
2 tbsp olive oil, for frying

For the sauce:

3 tbsp olive oil
150g shallots, finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, crushed
½ tsp crushed dried chillies
2 tbsp tomato puree
200ml fino sherry
200ml chicken stock
½ tsp salt
freshly ground black pepper

Accompaniments: 

600g potatoes (eg King Edward)

Handful flat-leaf parsley leaves

Method

• For the albondigas, soak the bread in the milk for five minutes, then squeeze out the excess milk. 
• Place the bread, ham, lamb mince, garlic, spices, chopped parsley and seasoning into a bowl and mix until well combined. 
• Shape the mixture into approximately 30 meatballs (ie about 25g each).  Set aside while you prepare the potatoes and sauce.
• Clean and dice potatoes (leaving skins on - remove any eyes and blemishes)
• Oven bake poatoes in sunflower oil at 180C for 45 minutes.  Turn every 10 minutes or so until they are golden brown.
• Meanwhile for the sauce, heat the olive oil in a frying pan and fry the shallots, garlic and chilli for 8-10 minutes, or until softened.  
• Add the tomato puree, sherry, stock, salt and pepper and simmer, stirring now and then, until the sauce has reduced and thickened. If started immediately after the potatoes it should be ready at the same time.
• Returning to the meatballs, heat the olive oil in a large frying pan and fry the meatballs for 4-5 minutes, or until golden-brown all over. (Do this in about 3 batches, then transfer to an open dish in the oven: this will allow the oil to drain from the balls. The last batch should be finished before the potatoes.) 
• When the potatoes are almost ready, take out the meatballs, divide between warmed plates, pour over the sauce, and take out the potatoes and add to the plates.  Dress with the parsley leaves.

chicken sofrito

lovely moist chicken recipe, a Spanish Sepphardi dish adapted from an Ottolenghi recipe

for 2-3 (for 6 - see 1. below)  

sunflower oil
4-6 chicken thighs

3 tsp ras el hanout (Moroccan mixed spice - see 2. below for alternative) 

3 tbsp lemon juice

1/2 whole lemon, chopped into 4
1 large onion, halved and sliced
400g new potatoes, halved (see 3. below for alternative)
2 tsp mashed garlic 

about 20 small stoneless olives or 10 large ones halved

handful coriander or flat parsley, chopped
salt and pepper

• Pour 1/2 tbsp oil into a large lidded pan, sear the chicken skin side down for 4-5 minutes. Turn and sear the other side for about 2 minutes.
• As you do this, season all over with the spice, 1/3 tsp salt, 1 tsp ground pepper and 2 tbsp of the lemon juice.
• Add the onion, lid the pan, and let the chicken cook in its juices for an hour on a low heat on the hob or in the oven at 160 degC (you may need to add a little boiling water if it dries out - check from time to time).
• Meanwhile, deep fry the potatoes till golden brown.   
• When cooked for an hour, add in the  potatoes, garlic, olives and lemon pieces in the pan, mixing in with the juices.  Return the chicken, replace the lid and continue cooking for another 30 minutes.
• The chicken should then be falling off the bone and the potatoes soft and juicy.  
• Pour over the remaining 1 tbsp lemon juice when you serve.

1. For a spectacular version for 6 use a 2.3kg chicken.  'Butterfly' the chicken by cutting with a sharp knife vertically between the breasts until fully opened up. Increase everything else by 50% and cooking time by 30mins)

2. You can substitute 2 tsp paprika, 1/2 tsp turmeric and 1/2 tsp cinnamon and/or nutmeg 

3. You can substitute cauliflower for part of the potato, also deep fried until brown. If so only add them 15 minutes before serving.  You can also use large potatoes cut into 2cm dice instead of new potatoes. 

sprouts tofu and shiitake salad

a great winter salad -- good served warm or cold

serves 4

marinade:
   2 tbsp sweet chilli sauce
   1.5 tbsp soy sauce
   2 tbsp sesame or ground nut oil
   1 tsp balsamic vinegar
150g firm tofu
500g brussels sprouts
100g spring onions, sliced
1/2 tsp dried chilli flakes
120g shiitake mushrooms, quartered
15g fresh coriander leaves, coarsely chopped
1 tbsp sesame seeds
 sunflower oil for frying

• Marinade the tofu.  Mix marinade ingredients. Cut tofu into cubes about 1cm in size, and stir into the marinade.
• Trim the bases off the sprouts and cut each into three thick slices.
• In a large non stick saucepan, heat sunflower oil to a good heat, add a little salt, and fry about half the sprouts in a single layer for about 2 minutes on each side.  Don't stir too much, but allow to become well browned, almost burned in a few places.  Remove to a large bowl and repeat with the remainder.
• Now add a little more oil and saute the mushrooms, spring onions and chilli flakes for about 2 minutes. Remove and add to the bowl.
• Using tongs lift half the tofu pieces into the pan, reducing to medium heat, and fry (careful of spitting) about 2 minutes on one side, then turning once for 2 minutes on the other side.  Remove and add to the bowl.  Repeat with the remainder.
• Return all the cooked ingredients to the pan, add the tofu marinade, and half the coriander.  Toss all together.
• Serve, garnished with the remaining corander and sesame seeds.

Ribollita - chick pea and fennel stew V

A great rich, filling vegetarian stew, based on ancient Tuscan recipes via Ottolenghi's Plenty.  Like many of the best recipes, it originated as a way of using up leftovers.

For 4 as a main course or 6+ as a starter. Ottolenghi's recipe has more liquid and is more soup like, which may be better as a starter.
Serve with bread rolls or boiled or baked new potatoes.

• olive oil
• 1 medium onion, sliced
• 1 medium fennel bulb, sliced
• 1 large carrot, cut lengthways and then across
• 2 celery sticks, ditto
• 1 tbsp tomato puree
• 200ml white wine
• 200g can chopped tomatoes
• 1 dstsp each: oregano, parsley and thyme (fresh or dried)
• 3 bay leaves
• 500ml mushroom stock (or veg stock)
• 150g sourdough bread (can be stale)
• 400g can chickpeas, drained and lightly mashed, leaving some of them whole.
• 2 tbsp basil pesto
• salt and pepper
• basil leaves for dressing (optional)

1. Saute the onion and fennel in 3 tbsp olive oil for 4 minutes.
2. Add the carrot and celery and continue to cook for 4 minutes.
3. Stir in the tomato puree and continue to stir for 1 minute.
4. Add the wine and simmer for 2 minutes.
5. Add the canned tomatoes, herbs and vegetable stock, plus salt and pepper to taste.
6. Simmer for 20 minutes on the stove.
7. While this is happening, switch the oven on to 180C.
8. Toss the bread, broken into rough chunks, in olive oil - enough to coat it - and some salt.
9. Bake in the oven for 15 minutes or until starting to brown.
10. After the 20 minutes is up on the stove, add the chickpeas and continue to simmer for 10 minutes.
11. Taste and adjust salt and pepper.
12. Add the bread from the oven, just before serving. 
13. Ladle into bowls for serving.  Add a spoonful of pesto and a little olive oil plus basil if used.

chocolate guinness cake

from Nigella Lawson via Gail: the Guinness makes this a very good most, rich cake, but without the obvious flavour of stout

• 250 millilitres guinness
• 250 grams unsalted butter
• 75 grams cocoa powder
• 400 grams caster sugar
• 142 millilitres sour cream
• 2 large eggs
• 1 tablespoon vanilla extract
• 275 grams plain flour
• 2½ teaspoons bicarbonate of soda

topping:

• 300 grams cream cheese
• 150 grams icing sugar
• 125 millilitres double cream (or whipping cream)

1. Preheat the oven to gas mark 4/180°C/350ºF, and butter and line a 23cm / 9 inch springform tin.
2. Pour the Guinness into a large wide saucepan, add the butter - in spoons or slices - and heat until the butter's melted, at which time you should whisk in the cocoa and sugar. Beat the sour cream with the eggs and vanilla and then pour into the brown, buttery, beery pan and finally whisk in the flour and bicarb.
3. Pour the cake batter into the greased and lined tin and bake for 45 minutes to an hour. Leave to cool completely in the tin on a cooling rack, as it is quite a damp cake.
4. When the cake's cold, sit it on a flat platter or cake stand and get on with the icing. Lightly whip the cream cheese until smooth, sieve over the icing sugar and then beat them both together. Or do this in a processor, putting the unsieved icing sugar in first and blitz to remove lumps before adding the cheese.
5. Add the cream and beat again until it makes a spreadable consistency. Ice the top of the black cake so that it resembles the frothy top of the famous pint

hummus

Bill's recipe

• 1 x 400g can chickpeas, drained but keep the liquid for now
• 1 lemon, juice of
• 1 dessertsp light tahini
• 1 clove garlic
• salt
• 2 tablespoons olive oil

to finish:

• more olive oil
• chilli powder

Mix all ingredients in first list together and use a hand zapper to mix to a paste.  NB consistency to your taste, some like it to have some roughness, some like it very smooth.
If the mixture seemes too dry add a little of the chicpea liquid.
Put the mixture in a container slightly bigger, sprinkle with chilli powder and pour over a little more olive oil to seal.

bigalan de pommes de terre

a picardy speciality we found in St-Valéry-sur-Somme: a very tasty, simple potato pie

for about 4

• 2 packs shop-bought flaky pastry 
• 500g potato 
• 2 onions 
• 150g smoked bacon (lardons or cut up small)
• salt 
• pepper
• crème fraiche

1. Divide the dough into two portions: 2/3 and 1/3. 
2. Line a pie dish with the 2/3 portion.
3. Cut the onions into thin slices and fry in a little butter until caramelized.
4. Peel the potatoes and cut into very thin slices.
5. Place successive layers of potatoes, then onions and lardons, seasoning each layer. 
6. Place the remaining pastry over the top, moisten the edges and firmly crimp the two pastry layers together. Prick the top of the pastry.
7. Bake for 1 hour at 180C. If pastry browns too quickly, cover with parchment paper or aluminum foil.
8. Before serving, cut an opening on the lid and pour in the cream.

sausage and bean casserole / tuscan bean soup

Delightfully rich Italian style casserole, served
with garlic bread -- and a delicious soup for next day

for 4
for the casserole:

• 150ml/5fl oz olive oil
• 1 large onion (or medium and small shallots)
• 8 good size meaty pork sausages
• 4 tbsp chopped fresh rosemary and parsley
• 2 cloves garlic pressed
• 1 tsp finely chopped dried chilli
• 4 carrots, peeled and finely chopped
• 4 celery sticks, finely chopped
• 2 x 400g cans borlotti and/or cannelloni beans 
• 400g (after shelling) broad beans (if in season - if not, another can of beans)
• salt and pepper to taste
• 500 ml mushroom stock (or veg stock)
• 20 cherry tomatoes, halved

for the garlic bread:
(this is all it needs for an accompaniment)

• baguette halved and cut into 75mm section
• olive oil
• 3 cloves garlic

1. Method
2. for the casserole:

• In a large saucepan, heat the olive oil until hot. 
• Chop then shallow fry half the onion in a casserole pan, until soft.
• Add the sausages and fry until slightly browned. 
• Add rosemary, garlic and the chilli and fry for a further minute.   
• Add the carrots, celery and broad beans (if used) and fry for a further three minutes.  
• Add the stock, cover with a lid and leave to simmer on a low heat for 20 minutes.
• Remove the lid, remove the sausages and cut into three pieces.
• Place the sausages back in the casserole with the cherry tomatoes and the rest of the onion or shallots, taste and season with salt and pepper.  
• Carry on cooking without the lid on a low heat for another 10 minutes allowing the sauce to thicken.
  
• Drain the canned beans, keeping the liquid, and add to the casserole. Continue to cook for a further 10 minutes. 
• Add some of the retained bean liquid if it seems too thick.  

 for the garlic bread:  

• Press the garlic and mix with the olive oil. 
• Spread this mixture over the cut face of the bread.   
• Brush the crust side with extra virgin olive oil and place on a hot griddle, turning until both sides are crusty. This will take about 6 minutes or so.

SOUP

If you have some of the casserole left over with a fair amount of liquid, beans and veg, you can use this as the soffrito for a tuscan bean and ham soup.

Just add to the pan:

• 1 medium onion, chopped.
• 100g shredded ham, preferably thick pieces (or lardons, fried in a dry pan until brown)
• 2 cloves garlic, pressed
• 4 more tbsp parsley and rosemary
• 1 litre mushroom stock (or veg or beef stock)
• season to taste
• you could add more beans and veg if you think it needs it

Bring to the boil then simmer with the lid on for about 15 minutes.

salmon ceviche

Very tasty as a tapa!

Tasty as a starter but would work as a main course with quantities doubled.
Other fish possible: in Spain we have had something similar with hake.
There are many variations.  I think cream is unusual as an ingredient.  Some others add chopped chilli rather than horseradish.

Per person as a starter:

• 100g raw salmon fillet
• 50g onion, finely chopped
• 50g gherkins, well drained and finely chopped
• 1tsp French mustard
• 1tsp horseradish sauce
• 50ml double cream
• 1 tbsp lime juice
• 1 tbsp dill, finely chopped

Cut up the fish into small strips, place in a bowl and stir in the other ingedients.
Chill and serve.

sour dough bread

the best bread you ever tasted. takes a long time but not a lot of effort, especially if you knead it with a mixer and dough hook.

Ingredients:
List 1

• 200g water
• 120g sourdough starter [see note 1 below]
• 236g whole wheat flour

List 2 [see also note 2 below]

• 274g water
• 85g rye flour
• 250g white bread (ie, 'strong') flour
• 170g spelt flour
• 13 grams (scant tbs.) salt

Method:

Evening of Day 1:

• Mix all List 1 ingredients together
• Ferment (let sit out at room temperature covered loosely with plastic) at 20C for 12 hours.

Morning of Day 2:

• Add List 2 ingredients to day 1 mix
• Knead until elastic, place in plastic covered bowl and refrigerate for 24 hours.

Morning of Day 3:

• Form a boule (round loaf) and ferment (let sit out on counter) 5 hours at 20C in a greased baking tray. Or use a loaf tin.
• Bake at 250C (or highest temperature possible) for 40-45 minutes.
  
  
  
  
  NOTE 1. 
  To make the starter:
  - 150mg wholewheat flour.
  - 150ml water.
  Mix together in a large glass jar. Leave open and at room temperature. The mixture should ferment.
  Each day for the next five days, throw away two-thirds of the mixture, and top up with a similar amount of flour and water
  At the end of the 5 days the mixture should be slowly bubbling at room temperature.
  It can then be kept in the fridge until needed. 
  If it stops bubbling bring back to room temperature again.
  If you do not use the starter, periodically throw away half and top up again with new flour and water. 
  
  NOTE 2.
  The mix of flour here works well but others work well too: eg a 5 flours mix of strong wholewheat, strong white, rye, spelt and granary.
   
  

potatoes boulangère

crunchy on top, liquid below 
- a good accompaniment to drier dishes that requires no last minute work 

for 4-6

900g potatoes, peeled, sliced thinly
1 large onion, finely chopped (or leek)
200ml veg stock
200ml milk
50g butter
salt and pepper seasoning

• Preheat the oven to 180C
• Butter generously a shallow baking dish (base and sides)
• Place a layer of potato slices in the base, season
• Add a layer of chopped onion
• Continue to add layers until all done, finishing with a neatly arranged layer of potato
• Mix the stock and milk and pour over the potatoes
• Dot with flecks of butter
• Bake for at least 60mins until the potatoes are cooked and golden brown on top

baked salmon with puy lentils

impressive looking and tasty dish to bring to table, and which can be cooked quickly.  

for 6*

750g* whole side of salmon, skinned (preferably wild)
150g cream cheese (eg Philly)
clove garlic, crushed
1 lemon, grated rind plus 1tsp juice
25g fresh breadcrumbs
25g grated parmesan
2tbsp chopped dill, plus extra to garnish
paprika

200g puy lentils (dry)
200g green beans, chopped **
25g flat leaf parsley, chopped (or dill)
2 tbsp dijon mustard
2 tbsp capers, rinsed and chopped
2 tbsp olive oil

*  this gives generous portions - a somewhat smaller side of salmon would work, or separate fillets of about 150g per person. If you prefer to serve plated up rather than bringing as one dish to the table, fillets may be better.
** you could also add or substitute some caramelised onion, cherry tomatoes, or carrots finely chopped, and you could cook in vegetable stock for more flavour

Place the lentils in a saucepan, just cover with water and bring to the boil.
Reduce heat and simmer for 30 minutes or until tender.
Drain.
Stir in the beans, mustard, capers and oil.

Meanwhile,
Preheat the oven to 200C.
Season salmon both sides and place on a greased greaseproof paper on a roasting tin
Mash the cream cheeses with the garlic, salt and pepper and lemon rind and juice
Spread evenly across the entire side of salmon
Mix together the breadcrumbs, parmesan and parsley and sprinkle over the cream cheese to form an even coating
Sprinkle with the paprika
Bake in the oven for about 15min, until the salmon is opaque pink.

Place the lentils on a warmed serving plate
Carefully lift the salmon onto the lentils
Garnish with dill sprigs.

Serve with potatoes boulangère to give some liquid in addition, or with a jus

Provencal braised lamb with puy lentils

For 4

For the braised lamb:
• ½ leg of lamb
• 2 onions, sliced
• 3 cloves of garlic
• 24 cherry tomatoes
• small bunch of thyme
• olive oil
• 3 bay leaves
• black olives, stoned
• ½ bottle good red wine
• 150ml/5fl oz lamb stock
  For the lentils:
• 150g/5oz puy lentils
• 200g/7oz of carrot, onion and celery, finely diced 
• 3 bay leaves
• 3 tbsp olive oil
• 500ml/17fl oz chicken stock
• 12 cherry tomatoes
• 1 lemon

Method

For the lamb, sear in a casserole dish in the olive oil until well browned.

Remove and add the onion and garlic and tomatoes. 

Cook for a minute or two and add the lamb.

Add the stock, red wine, bay leaves and olives and thyme.

Cover and cook in the oven at 180/350/Gas 4 for two hours. The lamb should be almost falling off the bone.

Meanwhile, fry the carrot, onion and celery with the olive oil for a few moments then add the chicken stock and tomatoes, bay leaves and lentils.

Simmer until the liquid has gone and the lentils are tender. Add a splash more oil and the lemon juice. 

Take the lamb out, reduce the stock for a moment and flake off some big chunks of lamb. 

Place a pile of lentils in a rustic dish and pile the lamb on top. Spoon the sauce around and over and serve.

Cauliflower cheese soup

Very comforting smooth, rich winter soup

Enough for about 6 servings

• Cauliflower - half a good sized head *
• ground nut oil and butter for frying
• 1 large potato (~200g)
• 1 large onion (~175g)
• 3 sticks celery
• 1 tsp nutmeg
• 2 cloves garlic, mashed 
• 1.25 l vegetable stock (or water plus 1 dessertspoon soy sauce)
• ground black pepper - generous amount
• salt - a couple of pinches
• 100g parmesan finely grated *
• 100ml double cream

1. Roughly cut up the 4 vegetables into small pieces.
2. Fry them gently in some oil and a knob of butter in a large saucepan until softened but not browned, about 5 minutes. 
3. Stir in the nutmeg and garlic, salt and pepper.
4. Cover with the stock and bring back to a boil.
5. Simmer for 30 minutes, with the lid on, then allow to cool for 10 minutes or so.
6. Blend with a hand blender in the pan.
7. Stir in the cheese and cream.
8. Bring slowly back to the boil and stir until all is smooth.  Add a little more boiling water if it seems too thick at this stage.
9. Serve with a sprinkling of nutmeg and/or a swirl of cream.

* You could use leftover cauliflower cheese, using the remains of the cheese sauce, making up the quantities as necessary.  Other cheeses than parmesan can also be used, such as gruyere or cheddar - generally hard and gratable with a fairly strong flavour.

Phad thai

A great Thai standby, easy and quick if you have the ingredients

For 2
Oil (eg ground nut) for frying
100g medium rice noodles (ie 50g per person)
2 spring onions, split lengthwise and cut into 1 inch lengths (plus 2 more split lengthwise for garnish)
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1 tsp tamarind paste
3 tbsp Thai fish sauce
juice of 1/2 lime (keep rest for garnish)
100g cooked chicken meat (or cooked prawns)
50g beansprouts (more for garnish)
salted peanuts, finely chopped (for garnish)

1. Soften the noodles by pouring boiling water over them in a bowl and leaving to stand for about 8 minutes.
2. Mix up the tamarind sauce, fish paste and lime juice in a small bowl.
3. (You can run them under cold water after that, drain and toss them in a little oil so they dont stick together.)
4. In a wok over a high heat get the oil to sizzling temperature.
5. Stir fry the spring onions and garlic, for 30 secs.
6. Add the chicken/prawns and stir fry briefly.
7. Add the noodles then the tamarind mixture, then beansprouts. 
8. Keep stirring until all warmed through.
9. Serve in the centre of the plate, and garnish each plate with a spring onion, a lime wedge and a small pile of peanuts and one of beansprouts.

Alternatives:

• To be really authentic, add 1 tsp sugar to the tamarind mixture (but works without to my taste)
• Add a carrot, chopped into matchsticks, and cook with the onions
• Add a small egg to the wok after frying the veg and stir fry until cooked like broken up omelette
• Add a little chopped chilli if you prefer it hot. Thais usually serve raw chilli separately cut up in rice vinegar, as a condiment.

Doune rolls

From the lovely people at Doune

Great breakfast rolls, also good toasted

Makes 12 rolls

340g granary flour

340g strong white flour

10g dried yeast

1 rounded teasp salt

1 rounded teasp sugar

Hand hot water (about 600ml)

Put all dry ingredients in a large bowl and mix with enough water to make a soft, pliable, slightly sticky dough.

Knead vigorously for 10 mins in a mixer with dough hook (or by hand).
On a floured surface, divide into 12 pieces and shape into balls.
Place on a well floured baking tray, separated, and leave to rise in a warm place for 90 minutes. 

Place in a pre-heated oven for 13 minutes at 220degC.

Cool on a wire rack. 

tuscan bean soup

for 2

400g can cannellini or borlotti beans
(or mix of both - or dried equivalent, soaked overnight)
50g fatty ham cut into small cubes
(traditionally, ham fat or bones are used, not the ham itself)
salt and pepper
400 ml beef stock

for the soffrito:
2 tbsp olive oil (or groundut oil)
1 celery stick finely chopped
1 medium carrot finely chopped
1/2 onion finely chopped
1 sprig or 1 tsp dried rosemary
salt and pepper

Heat the oil in a saucepan and fry all the soffrito ingredients gently for about 15 minutes until well softened.
Add the stock and ham, cover and bring to the boil and simmer for a further 20 minutes.  (Also the beans if dried beans used.)
(If using fat or bones, remove after the 20 minutes).
Add the tinned beans including the liquor in the can and simmer for a further 5 to 10 minutes.
Adjust seasoning to taste.

spice-perfumed shoulder of lamb

from Deborah Golden - gorgeous!

for 6

2.5kg shoulder of lamb
2 heaped tsp sumac
4tbsp edible rose petals (rosewater?)
1 tbsp cumin ground
1/2 tbspground cinnamon
1/2 tbsp dried lime powder (or more sumac)
vegetable oil
2 tsp crushed sea salt

Oven at 160/140 fan
Place the lamb in a roasting tin lined with nonstick baking paper
Grind all the spices inc rose petals together until the petals are ground as finely as possible.
Drizzle a little oil onto the lamb and rub it all over, then sprinkle the spices and salt onto the lamb, making sure they adhere
Roast for 4 hours, then remove, cover with foil for 10 minutes, leave to rest before serving.  Should literally come apart with a fork.

Serve with green salad (tabbouleh?), potatoes or rice.

frittata

this is a great make-it-up-as-you-go-along, thow-anything-in recipe, based on a Mary-Ellen McTague article in the Guardian Saturday magazine, great for summer lunches

For 6 (halve the quants for a generous version for 2)

12 large eggs
100ml cream (richer) or milk (lighter)
S+P
about 250g grated cheese: cheddar or any gratable cheese, or substitute dollops of Philly type cream cheese as the last thing you add, for about half the volume
about 100g meat: chorizo, bacon, ham, salami - or smoked salmon
about 100g vegetables: apraagus, broccoli, spinach, brad beans, peas, whatever's around and in season
(or you could go with 200g veg and no meat)
about 30g fresh herbs: choose what goes with the other ingredients - or what you have - such as chives, tarragon, dill, parsley (especially flat leaf) etc
anything else you think would beef it up: nutmeg, chilli sauce, truffle oil

Oven at 170C
Lightly oil a baking dish (should be large enough for the final mixture to be fairly spread out, otherwise it will not cook through - eg 25x30cm ceramic dish
Blend together the eggs and cream or milk, with some S+P.
Scatter the dry ingredients and mix thoroughly in the dish
Pour over the egg mixture
Bake for 20 minutes, then check to make sure it's cooked through - if not cook a little more.

tabbouleh

I was at a David Hare play recently and a character had to explain what made his salad so special: pomegranate seeds was the answer.  And so it is here. This is based on two Ottolenghi recipes.  I have had many varieties of tabbouleh, as it is a dish that seems to have been popular across the middle east from Persia to the Levant and beyond.   

Enough for 5 or 6 as a starter of side salad

This version does not use bulgar wheat, which is a common ingredient, but you could add it for a less intense flavour, especially as an accompaniment

Chop very finely:
Good bunch of flat parsley,
2 medium tomatoes
Same amount of cucumber
Seeds of 1 pomegranate (about 50g)
A large shallot
2 spring onions

1 tbsp lemon juice
1 tbsp olive oil

Spices: 1 teaspoon each:
allspice
cardamom seeds
nutmeg
cinnamon sticks
black mustard seeds
coriander seeds
cumin

Whizz the spices in an electric grinder (you can substitute already ground spices if you dont have them whole, but whole is much better. The smell after whizzing is heavenly).
When whizzed you will find the shells of cardamom and other seeds have not been ground and come to the top.  Sieve to get just the ground spices.

Mix together all the chopped ingredients.
Stir in the lemon and oil.
Mix in the sieved spices.
Cover and place in the fridge until chilled.